Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Picton

I have at last made it to the south island. I have wanted to be here so much, so busy and stressed working, I finally arrived and instead of feeling excited and free I just kept stressing trying to decide what to do, where to go... when it dawned on me to take a deep breath. Relaxing in the sun room of a quiet, homey backpackers hostel, I simply can't be bothered to rush anywhere. Stress slips away. Steep and deep, the Marlborough fjords are my company, the masts in the marina, the high, dry sun... and I realize I have all the time in the world. I might go hire a bike and cruise around vineyards. I might go on a dolphin quest. I might sit in the sun and read....but it will be fantastic no matter what.

A gentleman this morning phrased it perfectly. He was sitting in the sun reading a book and drinking tea, when another guest came out to smoke. The man smiled broadly, setting down his book to roll a cigarette as well. "Another shitty day in paradise, eh?"

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

The 'Naki

Made the long drive to New Plymouth this weekend to climb Mount Taranaki. I decided to take the “direct route” which involved the Forgotten World Highway and a “no gas 150km sign.” Even for a New Zealand road, the twists and turns on this highway were enough to make my sense of adventure carsick.

New Plymouth seemed like a nice, industrial little city, but maybe I just get excited these days about being anywhere the population is larger than three thousand. The weather was fine and I had a lovely walk along the coast before meandering down for live music at one of the many parks, which happened to be lit up for their summer festival.




I was a little concerned about the weather - being a large peak right on the ocean, Taranaki can attract some pretty variable weather conditions. The weather forecast for the day before had said "fine with some cloudy periods" and when I arrived at the DOC (Department of Conservation) visitors center to check on the route, it was pouring down rain. Nevertheless, I was determined to be determined and rose at 5 fingers crossed. The world was clouded over. By the time I was at the trail head the sun was breaking through -


and I had a good feeling about the weather.


The track itself was quite scenic, beginning in the “goblin forest” and winding its way up (and only up….I don’t think more than ¼ mile of that trail was flat) along a service road to an alpine hut, and then through an atmospheric mix of basalt cliff sides and high alpine scenery. After a never-ending flight of wooden stairs (to protect regeneration of vegetation communities...though i did feel a bit silly) there was the obligatory scree field and a proper scramble to the summit.



At 8:45, the last wisps of cloud were blown away from the top of the mountain, and I turned around to this awesome sight:


A small glacial saddle sits just before the summit, but the snow was soft enough in the sun to walk across without feeling too unsafe. Eyeing the sheer icy runway to my right did make me wish I had an ice axe and definitely had me thinking about how unpleasant - and inaffective - a self-arrest with my elbows might be. All was fine though, and I enjoyed some inspiring views and company of several fine hikers at the top. The highlight of lunch was probably the guy who thought my gaiters were sexy. New Zealand is a funky place.



See album to the right for more photos. Peace.